AI D&D miniature generator
Describe your character — race, class, pose, gear — or upload reference art, and get a 3D miniature you can export as STL and print for the table. It's the fastest way to a mini of the character that only exists in your head.
Custom characters and creatures are exactly what AI 3D is genuinely good at, so this use case punches above its weight. The one thing that trips people up is printing small — so this page is honest about that.
How it works
- 1Describe the character
Pick the Figurine use case and describe one clear character: "a dwarf paladin in plate armor holding a warhammer, standing." A simple, grounded pose prints better than a mid-leap action shot.
- 2Generate and export STL
Preview first, then build the 3D. Judge it on screen before you spend anything — if a limb or weapon looks too thin to survive printing, re-roll with a sturdier pose or bulkier gear. When one is worth keeping, $5 unlocks the STL and every download after it.
- 3Scale, support, print
In your slicer, scale to 28–32mm, add supports, and print. A resin printer gives the crispest detail at mini scale; then prime and paint as usual.
Resin vs FDM for minis
At tabletop scale, detail is everything, and this is where the printer matters more than the model. A resin (MSLA) printer resolves fine faces, folds, and weapon edges that an FDM printer smears at 28mm. If you only have an FDM printer, print the mini a bit larger (40–54mm "heroic" scale) so the details survive.
Either way, minis need supports — the thin, overhanging bits (outstretched arms, capes, spear tips) won't print unsupported. Your slicer generates them automatically; just check the fragile areas before you commit resin.
What generates well for the tabletop
- Single characters and creatures in a grounded, static pose.
- Bulky silhouettes — armor, cloaks, big weapons — over spindly details.
- Monsters and beasts (they're forgiving; you paint the face anyway).
- Avoid dynamic mid-action poses and paper-thin parts — they're the ones that fail on the plate.
Frequently asked questions
Can I make a miniature of my D&D character?
Yes — describe your character (race, class, gear, pose) or upload reference art, and it builds a 3D mini you can export as STL and print. Characters and creatures are one of the things AI 3D handles best.
Will a 28mm miniature printed from an AI model have usable detail, or does it come out mushy?
At 28mm you are asking a lot, and the honest answer is that it depends more on your printer than on the model. Resin holds up: faces, belt buckles, weapon edges and cloth folds survive at that scale, and a generated mini looks like a mini. FDM at 28mm loses the face first, then anything thinner than the nozzle, and the result often reads as a blob wearing a silhouette. Two things help before you print anything. Prompt for bold, readable forms — a heavy cloak, a large weapon, a strong pose — because fine surface detail that was never larger than a few tenths of a millimetre at print scale was never going to appear. And test at a larger scale first: print the same file at 54mm, see what the geometry actually holds, then decide whether 28mm is worth it. The parts that vanish at 28mm are also the parts a paint job would have covered, which is why heavily-shaped minis survive the shrink and finely-etched ones do not.
Resin or FDM printer for minis?
Resin (MSLA) gives far crisper detail at 28–32mm scale. If you only have an FDM printer, scale the mini up to 40–54mm 'heroic' size so the fine details survive the nozzle.
What scale should I print at?
28mm or 32mm is standard tabletop scale — set it in your slicer, not the prompt. Print larger if you're on FDM. Remember minis need supports for outstretched arms, capes, and weapon tips.
Can I sell or commission minis I make?
On a paid plan you get a full commercial license for the models. Note that named characters or IP from published settings may have their own rights — keep original designs original.
Make your miniature
Free to start in 51 countries — 200 credits on signup, no card. A preview first, so you only spend credits when you build the 3D.
Start creating →